Timberline Lodge Snowshoe Adventure
So this is what you do. On Tuesdays and
Thursdays every week skip that Starbucks(R) Grande Soy Latte and once
a month put the resultant saved $40 in a jar. Then, once a year, take
the $480 and buy yourself and your lover a romantic adventure weekend
(or week night) at Timberline lodge. You will love the experience and
you will look great in the ultra luxurious shower in your Fireplace
King Bedroom missing that extra 10 pounds I just saved you by
forgoing the lattes.
Here is why I think this is a good
idea:
We got started a little later than we
originally planned, but it was my birthday and we were determined not
to rush. We rolled out of Portland on Sunday early afternoon just
around 11:00. There had not been much snow up on Mt. Hood this year,
but we had a storm go through in the last couple of weeks with
additional fresh snow last night. So I was hoping that there would be
good ground cover for some snowshoeing. The weather report was a
little mixed. Some saying sun. Some saying rain. Dang weather guys.
50% chance of them giving you a weather report that has meaning.
Like, what is the difference between partly cloudy and partly sunny?
Is it just your attitude?
Anyway, I think we had missed all of
the traffic going up the mountain, but there sure were a lot of
people up there when we arrived. Timberline snowpark was full (big
electric signs assured us) and the parking lots for Snow Bunny and
Trillium lake appeared to be full. But we were going to a little less
traveled trail. We were headed for where the Pacific Crest Trail
crosses the Barlow trail. You probably know all about the Pacific
Crest Trail, it has received a lot of publicity lately. I believe
there is a movie in the making, but perhaps you don't know about
Barlow. The Barlow Trail is part of the old Oregon Trail that was
used by settlers coming over in Conestoga wagons. I am betting they
didn't come over this time of year. Or if they did, their bones are
still there someplace, under the snow. This particular part of the
Oregon Trail was designed specifically to get around the blockage
caused by Mt. Hood on the one hand, and the Gorge falls and rapids on
the other. Seems like once you got your wagon and oxen team to The
Dalles you had the choice of either building a raft and floating down
the Columbia through the gorge (with a 2 mil portage around Ciello
falls) or paying your 50 cents a wagon and pulling everything due
south and west around the mountain through the pass where now sits
Government Camp. The Barlow pass was slightly safer. You and your
live stock would end up in Oregon City all ready for a successful run
at the free farm lands of the Willamette. Kind of makes you nostalgic to
go play the computer game again, huh?
So, we arrive at the Trailhead. The
parking is pretty limited when the snow is deep. They plow out a
section, but the road ends pretty abruptly. Today the entire parking
area was essentially full, but my Partner saw a little space at the
very end of the run just big enough to back in our little adventure
Subaru. Good Find, Action Adventure Girl !!
We were putting on our layers and shoes
and gear when I heard the first boom. A deep rolling sound somewhat
reminiscent of distance thunder. What was that? A storm coming?
Boooooooooom. Hmmm, no.... something else. Then it happened close by
where I could see it. Booooooom. It was huge clumps of wet snow
falling out of the trees. Wow. Don't want to get hit by one of those.
It wouldn't kill you but it might knock you down, and you would be
very wet.
We got our snowshoes on and hiked back
up the road a bit to the trail head. A bunch of people were now
showing up at the end of their hikes. They were all very wet and red
faced. One woman said, “It is a rain forest in there”. Another
“Watch out for the falling snow, I got hit in the head”. (See, I
told you so).
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Snow Orbs |
We climbed up the 6 foot ridge out of the
plowed area and shoed over to the trail head signs. Looked like hiking
on the Pacific Crest trail would be fun today. We would be hiking on
the trail toward Twin Lakes, but we didn't really think we would get
there today. It was already 1:30 and we had reservations for a very
nice room at the lodge starting at 4:00. So.... A few hours of hiking
then.
The forest was a regular set of snow
sculptures. The snow must have just blown in, thick and wet, in the
last day or so and large orb like clusters of the stuff were setting
on the west side of everything sticking up above ground level. It
was lovely. We had a hard time getting started because we kept having
to stop and take pictures of some new thing. And all of the time the
sun was hitting the trees over our heads and melting snow was falling
like a heavy rain all over and around us. And all around us was the
occasional but steady booming of the snow when it finally gave up its
sticky hold from the top of the trees and succumbed to its gravitic
fate.
One thing that the still mostly fluffy snow and the sunshine reminded me of is the cool ice blue color effect you get when sun shines through snow. Anyplace there is a good footprint or other foot deep hole and the sun hits just right you get this marvelous penetrating blue color. I tried for a picture. It doesn't give the same sunny blue effect but you can see it some. Blue snow. Better than yellow snow.
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The Blue in the Snow |
The pre-lunch part of our hike was
pretty much all up hill. We have not been doing our hiking this
winter. We were feeling the steps. And you use a slightly different
sort of muscles when you snowshoe and those muscles were quickly
warning us about how much we were going to need a hot tub later.
At this part of the Pacific Crest Trail
we really were near a local crest. We were mainly in the tress (pine
and such) but we got occasional glimpses of snow capped ridges off to
the east. We met maybe 20 other people on the trail. Many just out on
the shorty snow shoes (good for groomed trails, but probably not so
good for going off track) and also a few cross country skiers (going
really fast, the bastards. Though they were going down hill. I wonder
how they did going the other way?).
At around the 90 minute mark we reached
a local maximum in altitude and decided to go off trail a bit and set
up for lunch. We tramped an area down flat and spread out a tarp.
When I am in the snow, I like to carry a good emergency tarp and one
of those self-inflating sleeping pads. My partner and I could sit on
the sleeping pad and it would insulate us from the snow. Otherwise,
even on the tarp, it would be very chilly sitting down. Since we were
no longer moving, I put on another layer. You cool down quickly when
you quit walking. I started some water to boil, adding some snow to
fill up my little coffee pot. We were planning on having turkey
sandwiches and some hot soup (and tea). We had been sitting for about
10 minutes, and the water was just starting to steam, when my partner
looked up hill and said “Oh”. I looked up expecting a polar bear
or an avalanche or something else I would have to kill, but what I
saw was wind sweeping through the trees. The sun was gone. The wind had started
blowing. The temperature dropped 5 degrees. And just like that it was
a different deal. Things were not looking so pretty. Things were getting
cold.
We both decided to pack up and head
back to the car.
It was snowing a little by the time we
hit the trail again and the clouds had dropped down into the trees.
Luckily the way back was downhill. You can go a lot faster downhill
than uphill. We pretty much just coasted back to the car. We even had
enough energy to do a little bit of off trail stuff, just for fun.
When we got back to our car, the parking lot was pretty much empty.
We saw a few more very wet people. I think most people were dressed
in warm cotton and such. We were wearing rain gear and we were fine
and dry underneath. So we climbed back into our trusty Subaru and got
back on the main road.
Just in time to hit a very strange
traffic jam that lasted all of the way back up the hill to the turn
off to Timberline lodge. Very strange. We were guessing that there
was either a car wreck someplace or this was just the congestion of
everyone leaving the various snow parks and ski resorts and heading
back to the city. Everyone else had to go to work tomorrow.
We were spending the night on the
mountain in a glorious room in Timberline Lodge.
Why?
Because it was my birthday.
I really like the idea of staying in
historic lodges and
Timberline is a real treat. My partner and I have
stayed there in the summer before
(insert link) but this is our
first trip up in the winter. This was set up as a special celebration
so we were taking one of the nicer rooms in the establishment. Our
room was big and rustic. It had a king size bed, two chairs around a
table, a couch in front of a little table, an absolutely gorgeous old
wood burning fireplace and a large bathroom with a walk-in all tile
shower. It was such a great room. Everything is done either in actual
historic items (like the bed frame and the fire poker) or in modern
but historically reminiscent manner (like the push button telephone
and the couches).
Timberline lodge was built in 1936
using WPA workers and funds. President Roosevelt dedicated it in 1938
with a speech that said (in part):
“This
Timberline Lodge marks a venture that was made possible by W.P.A.,
emergency relief work, in order that we may test the workability of
recreational facilities installed by the Government itself and
operated under its complete control.”
Now
doesn't that seem like a strange thing for an American President to
say?
Of course, with all of this history
comes a few problems. For instance, even an old Eagle Scout may never
have run into the a situation where the east blowing wind makes the
chimneys not draft correctly and so when you put a match to the
pre-laid kindling, instead of getting a nicely drawing fire, you get
a rapidly growing out-pouring of smoke which quickly fills your room,
sets off the smoke detectors, and has you calling the front desk
begging for rescue.
Evidently this sort of things happens
all of the time, because the young bellman was there in an instant,
told us to close the windows, open the doors, and he appeared with a
big fan which he used to empty the smoke while he got the fire going
and the flu sucking. Later he came back and lit another fire for us
and this time he demonstrated the method of getting the flu to draft.
You hold a burning piece of newspaper up high in the chimney until
enough of a suction is created to pull the paper up into the chimney.
Then you quickly light your tinder and away goes your fire. At that
point, the chimney is drawing so efficiently that when you close the
glass doors to the fireplace you get a forced air stoked fire.
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Note the Snow out the window |
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Fire Bunny |
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Just a Little Smoke Damage |
Such excitement.
And we had dinner reservations for
7:00.
Time to change. One of the things I
like to do is to get all gussied up and go have a nice dining
experience. As luck would have it, my partner also likes good food
and charming atmosphere, so we put on our suit and dress and headed
over to the Cascade Dining Room to see what the chef had going for
the evening.
Now I have eaten at the Cascade on a
few other occasions and it has always impressed. Tonight was no exception. When you go there, go all out. Don't chintz on the
appetizers or anything like that. We had a half salad half scallop
and salmon roe creation that was very yummy. And then while you are
waiting for your main course, they bring you other little things.
Some great fresh bread, of course, but also some little sample of
something they are trying out. Tonight is was a little taste of
salmon and prosciutto mixed with some fun sauce. Small but tasty. To
“clear our palette” they brought us a little egg cup full of
raspberry sorbet. Very palette cleansing. For our entre I had lamb
cheeks and my partner had tenderloin. Both came with black mushrooms
and butternut squash and a number of other fun little things. For
desert we had coffee and a chocolate almond cake. Did we get wine?
No. My partner didn't care for any and I didn't want a bottle by
myself. I did have a couple of very find pints of a local IPA.
After dinner we went and sat by our newly rejuvenated fire for a bit to let our dinner digest, and then we put on our lodge supplied spa robes and headed down the hall to the outdoor pool and hot tub. That is right. Out doors. Even in the middle of the winter and even though surrounded by snow, there is a wonderful large and HOT (maybe 103?) hot tub. No chairs though, cause they were all covered in snow. We wallowed in the tub for a while. A good chance to stretch our legs out after the snowshoe. We did not go into the pool for a swim. True it was heated, but the cold wet wind blowing around was NOT.
Luckily the moon was out. From my seat in the hot tub I could just see the rays of the full moon as it shown over the roof of the historic old lodge sending crystal moon beams down the...
"That isn't the moon"
"What?"
"The light, that isn't the moon. Look, the light is too close. That is a flood on the front of the building"
Dammit.
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I stole this from Wikipedia. But I give them money. |
Anyway, there was light and you could see stuff.
The next morning we had planned on doing another snowshoe, but it was raining. So we decided to laze around, have a huge brunch and then do some blogging in the main lounge. The main lounge of the lodge is this big circular room that runs 4 floors up with a circular stone fireplace in the middle. On the ground floor is a sort of area for wet and cold skiers to hang out. They have their own part of the fireplace, but I have never seen a fire lit there. On the second floor is the main sitting area. Lots of couches and mini seating areas surrounding the fireplace. Big wrought iron everything everywhere. And Fires going. Lots of guests reading, using computers (yes, Virginia, there is wifi) and playing board games. The next floor up is a balcony around the edge of the room with more sitting a bar and light eats place in the evening.
We had a seat up in the bar area (not open yet) because that was where the nice seats were. You also had to be up that high to be above the snow level and able to see out onto the mountain. Strange to have the snow piled up over the windows on everything except the top floor.
But, oh, the pretty blue color.